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Reference & How-To

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Learn to Quilt Patterns and Reference Guides for Sewing and Embroidery available at Shabby Fabrics

Frequently Asked Questions About Reference & How-To

What is a Quilt Block?
A quilt block is the main part of a quilt being a square of fabrics sewn together in a design and combined with other blocks that make up a quilt.
A block may be made up of smaller square shapes, or more intricate designs like a Dresden Plate, Log Cabin, Sawtooth Star, or one of hundreds of other quilt block patterns that have been developed over the history of quilting.
What is fabric grain?
The grain of a fabric is the direction in which threads are woven to create it. These threads cross at a 90-degree angle. So the direction of fabric grain if a quilter is looking at a piece of fabric with the selvages horizontal to them, is top to bottom and side to side.
Within the grain of the fabric are warp (side to side; also called straight grain) and weft (top to bottom; also called cross grain).
If a quilter has a scrap of fabric without selvages, they can find the grain based on the way the fabric stretches (or doesn’t!). The warp of a fabric (side to side direction, parallel with the selvage) is much less flexible than the weft (top to bottom, perpendicular to the selvage). If a quilter pulls the fabric in the same direction of the threads in order to test its stretch, the stretchier direction is the weft of the fabric. The warp (or straight grain) generally does not stretch.
What is fabric bias?
The bias of a fabric is the direction that is angled between the grain or threads in the weave of the fabric. If the grain of fabric is made up of threads woven at 90 degree angles to one another, the bias is at a 45 degree angle, or diagonal. The bias of a fabric does not align directly with the woven threads, so if a quilter were to pull in this direction, the fabric would stretch quite a bit. Quilters need to be especially careful when working with bias so that their measurements and seams don’t get pulled out of shape.
What is a seam allowance?
A seam allowance is the small amount of fabric remaining on one side of a sewn seam. That is, when sewing at a machine, quilters place two pieces of fabric right-side to right-side and sew a straight line. When these sewn pieces are turned right-side-out, the amount of fabric on the wrong side is the seam allowance.
Quilters use this measurement to calculate how large the final sewn fabric size will be.
¼” is standard seam allowance in quilting. Patterns and machines are all designed with this in mind, so it’s best not to deviate from this.
How many types of quilt blocks are there?
There are hundreds of quilt block patterns, each with its own name! There are a few block patterns that are more traditional and commonly used which we define for you on the Shabby Fabrics website. Some of those blocks are: Sawtooth Star, Ohio Star, Log Cabin, and Four-Patch. Hopefully these definitions get you started and help build your quilting vocabulary.
What does “fusible” mean?
Fusible is a term that describes a surface that has been treated with an adhesive that will help it stick to fabrics. Theses are typically an iron-on adhesive that activates with heat, and are usually used to attach stabilizers and interfacing to fabrics to make them easier to handle during construction of a project.
How big is a yard of fabric?
A yard measures 36” x WOF (width of fabric) which is between 43”-45”.
What is the difference between ironing and pressing?
Ironing is a lateral movement to flatten fabric. This is the type of movement you use when ironing wrinkles out of clothing.
When “setting a seam” to be pressed, use your hands to flatten a seam and press gently with the iron, making sure that the seam lays flat without any additional folds. Moving the iron laterally could cause folds in the seams or other irregularities that could affect measurements.
What is quilt “piecing”?
Piecing is the word used to describe the method that quilters use to assemble separate pieces of fabric into quilt block designs. These blocks are stitched together by hand or with a sewing machine.
How do you piece a quilt backing?
A quilt backing can be pieced just like the quilt top, or simply be one fabric pattern or color. There are limitless options for quilt backs as some quilters prefer more intricate, complementary designs and others opt for minimalist or solid colors to keep the focus on the beautiful detail of the quilt top and stitching.
What is a “nested seam”?
Also called an “interlocking seam”. When the pressed seam allowances are pressed in opposite directions so that the seam sewn perpendicular to them lays flat. As in a 4-directional seam intersection.
What is a selvage?
Also spelled “selvedge”, a selvage is the edge of a piece of fabric. There are two selvages, one at either side of the fabric. The measurement between selvages is the WOF or width of fabric.
Selvages tend to be more densely woven and include information from the manufacturer about that particular fabric including dye colors used, sku number, and often name of the designer, manufacturer, and collection.
Traditionally, selvages were trimmed from the main body of the fabric and thrown away. Contemporary quilters, however, have invented all sorts of interesting projects that are perfect for using up these scraps, eliminating waste and making use of the tiny motifs often printed on them!
What is chain-stitching?
When a seam is sewn on a machine across multiple pieces of fabric without sewing the individual pieces of fabric together. The result is a more economic use of thread and time, allowing the quilter to simply add fabric while sewing, rather than pulling additional thread, cutting, and starting again.
What is a Half-Square Triangle?
A half-square triangle is a 90-degree triangle shape that, when paired with another, makes a square.
What is a starter fabric strip?
A scrap piece of fabric used in a sewing machine before a piece with a narrow point like a half- or quarter square triangle. This small piece of fabric anchors the thread of the machine to ensure that the fine points of fabric doesn’t get pushed down inside the machine at the beginning of a new seam.
What is fussy cutting?
Especially when working with directional fabric (fabric featuring a printed design that has a certain direction like stripes, or motifs like houses, flowers, animals, etc.) quilters use fussy cutting to use a specific part of the image in their project.
For example, if a quilter has a fabric that is covered in heart motifs that all face the same direction (there’s a “right side up” for a heart and you can tell if it’s upside down) and they want to isolate and center a specific heart, they can fussy cut around it to put the printed design exactly where they want it in their project.
What is a “scant ¼” seam”?
A seam allowance that is just barely under ¼”
What is a “subcut”?
In quilting, a subcut is using a smaller ruler to make a smaller cut after making a large initial cut of your fabric for more accurate or detailed piecing.
How much fabric do you buy for a quilt?
Other than following the fabric requirements on a given pattern, here is some advice from Jennifer Bosworth, CEO of Shabby Fabrics:

Rule of thumb:

If you like a fabric, get a yard.
If you love a fabric, get 2 yards.
If you can’t live without a fabric, get 5 yards.

Why? Fabric patterns are short-lived and can often not be re-ordered, so there's no guarantee that the fabric will ever be available again. If in the future you decide to use that pattern for a quilt and need more than you thought you would, buying extra ensures that you'll have enough.
What is quilt binding?
The binding of a quilt is made up of the small strips of fabric that are sewn all the way around the edges, unifying the top, batting, and backing of a quilt.
What kind of sewing machine is best for quilting?
There are hundreds of sewing machines on the market, each with a varying number of features. Depending on what kind of sewing you plan to be doing, you might decide that you need a machine with lots of bells and whistles.

With sewing machines, you certainly get what you pay for, so expect to invest in something that will last a long time. However, getting a fancy machine  isn’t required for successful quilting. Remember: quilting was traditionally all done by hand!

If you want to embark on a quilting journey with simple stitches in beautiful designs, all you need is a machine that can do a straight stitch with an adjustable stitch length. Buy from a local quilt shop and they usually will service the machine and offer a warranty.

We sew using a BERNINA 770 QE in our videos and we love it!
How often do I change my sewing machine needle?
You should replace your sewing machine needle after every 20-30 hours of use.
What is interfacing?
Interfacing, similar to—and often confused with—stabilizer, is a fabric that is added to reinforce thinner fabrics to give projects shape and make them more rigid, making them easier to work with in certain projects.
Interfacing is also used to give fabric projects body, meaning they feel a bit thicker and more solid in hand when finished. Interfacing can also be made to change the way a fabric behaves. For example, it may be more rigid in one direction while flexing in the other.
Which sewing machine foot is best for quilting?
A walking foot, also called a dual-feed or even-feed foot is the most valuable sewing machine foot to have after the 1/4” seam foot, which helps to sew the perfect 1/4” seam when piecing.
What is the difference between interfacing and stabilizer?
In short: interfacing is meant to be added to a project in a permanent fashion where stabilizer is often meant to be removed from the finished project or else loses its stiff quality over time to blend with the other fabrics and become undetectable.
These products can be used interchangeably, but in order to understand the way they hold up over time, it’s important to understand their differences.
Interfacing is a type of fabric, typically sold by the yard, meant to become part of a project, reinforcing and adding body and durability to purses, shirt collars, or buttonholes. Stabilizer is also typically sold by the yard, but is used to temporarily support fabric being actively sewn as in embroidery or when working with delicate fabrics. After the project is complete, it’s torn, ironed, or washed away, depending on the type of stabilizer used, leaving just those delicate fabrics or stitching behind.
What is fabric Stabilizer?
Stabilizer’s main purpose is to do what its name suggests: stabilize your fabric! It’s a type of fabric that can be iron-on, wash-away, or be sewn onto a fabric to give it a bit more rigidity.
Stabilizer is especially useful in embroidery projects where the fabric must be pulled taut while stitching, or for use with delicate or thin materials while sewing to protect the fabric from getting damaged. Stabilizers are removed at the end of a project, once the fabric they’ve stabilized no longer require stitching.
What is Webbing?
Webbing is a strong woven synthetic material typically sold in flat strips. It can be used in tote bags to give the handles and body strength, or in a number of other projects where a strong material is needed.
What is Batting?
Batting is the soft interior layer of a quilt that lies between the top and the backing. Batting is the middle of the “quilt sandwich”!
What is quilt backing?
Backing is the fabric used on the back side or under side of a quilt. Some backings are pieced together until they are the correct size to match the quilt top, and some fabrics are made especially to serve as backing fabric, measuring 108” across instead of the typical 43”-45”.
What is the difference between English Paper Piecing (EPP) and Foundation Paper Piecing (FPP)?
Alternate:Both English Paper Piecing (EPP) and Foundation Paper Piecing (FPP) are techniques where fabric is cut into smaller shapes to be pieced together, using paper (or templates) as a temporary stabilizer and guide.
Both techniques allow for improved accuracy, both can be done with a sewing machine, and both are great methods to use when piecing together a larger image in a similar style to a mosaic or collage. Here are a few of the biggest differences between the two:

In EPP, the quilter is working with fabric pieces that are in the shape and size of the finished patchwork, piecing it together as you would a puzzle.

EPP requires the quilter to cut out each shape and baste the fabric and paper templates together using either thread or glue before getting started.

EPP traditionally uses hand-stitching (or machine-stitching) to carefully sew only the touching edges of the fabric seams together.

EPP uses heavier card stock paper that can be removed from the shaped fabric and reused again and again.

Be sure to watch our tutorial videos for English Paper Piecing for expert advice and demonstration from Jen!

In FPP, the quilter is working with fabric pieces that are larger than the finished size and include seam allowances as they work from the center of a piece, layering outward.

FPP typically uses a sewing machine (though it can also be sewn by hand) to adhere the fabric pieces directly onto the paper pattern, cutting them to size as more are added.

FPP allows the quilter to get started right away, using a sewing machine to sew right onto the paper, but requires the quilter to measure seam allowances for each fabric piece as they go.

FPP, because of the difference in the way paper is used to stabilize and piece the fabrics together, the paper used is a lighter or standard weight paper that is torn from the finished seams and discarded.

Be sure to watch our tutorial videos for Foundation Paper Piecing for expert advice and demonstration from Jen!

What is English Paper Piecing (EPP)?

English Paper Piecing (EPP) is a patchwork quilting technique where fabric is cut into smaller shapes to be pieced together, using paper (or templates) as a temporary stabilizer and guide. EPP is favored for its ability to create larger designs with more precision than is possible using a sewing machine.

In EPP, pre-cut fabric shapes are adhered to and folded around matching card stock shapes in a process called ‘basting’, making the fabric shape the exact size it will be when the patchwork is finished. These pieces fit together much like a puzzle and allow the quilter to rearrange different fabrics in new designs and see the actual size and shape of the finished project. Traditionally, EPP is hand-sewn, though modern quilters have incorporated the use of sewing machines for added convenience and speed.

Once the shapes are arranged and carefully sewn together, avoiding the card stock edges, the card stock is removed and can be used again and again.

Be sure to check out our English Paper Piecing video tutorials and follow along with Jen for expert advice and demonstration!

What is Foundation Paper Piecing (FPP)?

Foundation Paper Piecing (FPP) is a piecing technique that uses paper as a stabilizer for fabric pieces that are sewn together one at a time, working from the inside of a shape outward to create a mosaic-like image. FPP is an especially fantastic technique for working with tiny fabric pieces and complicated images.

In FPP, a sewing machine is used to adhere the fabric pieces directly onto the back side of the printed paper pattern, cutting them to size as more are added. The quilter is working with fabric pieces that are larger than the finished size and include seam allowances as they work from the center of a piece, layering outward. Measuring a ¼” seam as each fabric is attached to the growing work, quilters then trim any excess fabric, keeping the edges neat and ensuring the perfect size every time.

Because of the way paper is used to stabilize the fabric in one piece, serving as the foundation on which patchwork is attached, the paper used is a lighter freezer weight or standard weight paper that is torn from the finished seams and discarded once the patchwork is finished. Some quilters opt to leave the paper inside the finished project, especially if it's a decor item that would not need to be washed.

Follow along with Jen in our Foundation Paper Piecing video tutorials to see this technique in action along with some helpful tricks to make this your new favorite piecing technique!

What is the difference between laser-cut and traditional appliqué?

Traditional appliqué is done by tracing and cutting out your templates by hand, turning the edges, and stitching down your pieces either by hand or machine. To learn how to do traditional appliqué, watch Jen Bosworth's appliqué tutorial series on the Shabby Fabrics YouTube page.

With laser-cut appliqué, all your appliqué shapes are precut by a laser-cutting machine and pre-fused with a fusible webbing. All you need to do is peel off the backing, iron it to your fabric, and stitch around the edges. To try out a simple laser-cut appliqué, you can purchase some of our precut and pre-fused Shabby Shapes.

What are quilt notions?

Quilting notions are the tools and supplies you use to create a quilt.  These can include rotary cutters, rulers, mats, pins, marking tools, marking pens and other basic sewing items.

How do I measure and cut fabric for quilting?

To measure and cut fabric for quilting, you should use quilting rulers and a rotary cutter. It is important to ensure that your fabric is square and that your cuts are accurate. Our preferred brand of rulers is Creative Grids. 

How do I assemble a quilt top?

To assemble a quilt top, you will need to sew together the quilt blocks or squares. This can be done using a sewing machine or by hand.

How do I quilt the layers of a quilt together?

To quilt the layers of a quilt together, you will need to sew through the top, batting, and backing of the quilt. This can be done using a sewing machine or by hand.

How do I bind a quilt?

To bind a quilt, you will need to sew a strip of fabric around the edges of the quilt. This can be done by machine or by hand. The most common width of strips are 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" strips. 

How do you start quilting as a beginner?

The best project to begin with to learn how to quilt is a quilt block. There are many ways to use a quilt block in a project when you're finished; You can make a pillow, wall hanging, or make more to stitch together into a larger quilt. The possibilities are limited only by your imagination! We recommend using a pattern to start but there are lots of ways for you to add your own personal touches. Be sure to check out our Learn to Quilt video series to follow along with Jen as she walks you through making your very first quilt with helpful tutorials, tips, and tricks!

What does WOF stand for?

Width of Fabric. The width of fabric is the entire length from selvege to selvege. Most fabric widths are between 42" and 45".

What is the difference between a quarter yard and a fat quarter?

A quarter yard is cut perpendicular to the selvege, all the way across the fabric. It measures approximately 9" x 43".

A fat quarter is a half yard (measuring approximately 18" x 43") cut in half resulting in a wider, shorter rectangle measuring approximately 18" x 21".